Wilfred George
Burgess Park has all you need to rustle up a dish of Escargots à l’Ail des Ours (Wild Garlic Snails).
To the uninitiated, urban foraging may evoke images of scavenging or acts of desperation, like plucking spare ketchup packets from cafes or harvesting beer dregs from a pub at closing time. In some cities, these might indeed be the only options for foraging, but in London, the world’s first National Park City and home to over 3,000 parks, the possibilities are far more diverse and exciting.
Foraging is a rich yet often overlooked culinary practice, especially in cities where shops offer almost unlimited and easy access to produce. However, with climate change accelerating and the cost-of-living crisis ongoing, it’s a way to reconnect with the environment and make use of its abundance.
Finding your food directly taps into a deep-seated hunter-gatherer instinct in all of us, and ignoring this can leave us feeling incomplete, missing out on a vital and enriching experience of connecting with the earth. Many overcome this urge by growing their own produce. However, many Londoners may feel helpless and give up on this dream without a garden or access to the much-coveted allotment. That is when foraging may come in handy.
It’s essential to recognize the risks of foraging. Most seasoned foragers will likely have a story or two about someone they know who suffered the consequences of consuming a suspicious mushroom. I’ll be sure to highlight any potential mix-ups with wild garlic or garden snails. Still, as this article is far from an exhaustive guide, I strongly recommend thorough research to ensure a safe, sustainable and successful foraging experience. Once you have a solid understanding of these risks, you can then begin to feast on the land.
Foraging in urban environments is not fundamentally different from foraging in more traditional rural settings. While there may be fewer opportunities in the city due to the lack of wide wild spaces, this also brings some unique advantages. For example, with no major foraging culture in British metropolitan areas, those of you willing to explore the urban landscape in this new way face little competition. Additionally, rural foraging problems, such as toxic farm pesticides and irate landowners, will be of no concern to you.
Southwark in particular lends itself to the activity of foraging. Without Royal Parks (which occasionally restrict foraging activities) and an abundance of public commons, woodlands, and waterways, the borough offers a diverse range of wild edibles throughout the year. From the mugwort and wild rocket of Burgess Park to the elderflowers along the Surrey Canal Path, Southwark’s green spaces are a forager’s treasure trove, if you know where to look. Moreover, Southwark’s often overlooked history as one of London’s market garden hubs means that fruit trees can still be found in various forgotten corners of the area. Additionally, Southwark’s mild microclimate extends the growing season, making it one of the most rewarding areas for gardening in London.
In the summer, I particularly enjoy the cherries. While spring also offers a host of wild delights. The most notable for me is the tremendously tasty wild garlic, an easy-to-find and truly delicious herb. It pairs beautifully with pork, whether tucked into an Italian-style porchetta or blended into a fresh, simple pesto for pasta. However, I often feel that the most satisfying foraged dishes arise from combining various wild ingredients. For example, snails are a rich source of protein and are considered a French delicacy, famously prepared à la Bourguignonne with a generous amount of garlic and butter. Fortunately, both snails and garlic can be found in Burgess Park.
Below, you’ll find a foraging guide to these two core ingredients, along with a recipe on how to prepare, cook, and enjoy them. Délicieux!
Wild Garlic | Allium ursinum
Older woodlanders may occasionally refer to it as ramsons or stinking nanny—my favourite colloquial name. This is a generous plant, not only tasty but also abundant. From mid-February, you can find it carpeting the ground across Britain in damp woodlands and dark hedgerows. In Southwark, you’ll find it thriving in places like the Albany Road Woodland at the top of Burgess Park. If it’s not there, don’t you worry. Keep an eye out in other green spaces around the area, and you’re sure to find some.
It can be identified initially by its strong garlic smell. To confirm, observe the leaves for their broad, ribbed, and pointed appearance, which should start at the thin underground bulb at the base. Early shoots may have pods that will bloom later in the season into small, white, six-petalled flowers on individual central stalks. To some, the equally pretty yet poisonous Lily of the Valley appears similar. With a second sniff and a quick visual check, you will find that it does not smell of garlic or have such vibrant green leaves.
Garden Snail | Cornu aspersum
Britain is home to a wide range of snail species, most of which are technically edible but not worth the effort. For example, the grove snail is overly tough and bland, while the brown-lipped or white-lipped snails yield very little edible flesh.
The Roman variety, typically served in average French brasseries, is considered the tastiest. However, fortunately for them and unfortunately for us, this variety is protected in the UK. Though it’s illegal to collect Roman snails, the smaller but equally edible garden snail is considered fair game. Unlike the Roman snail’s uniformly brown shells, the more common garden snail shell hosts a striking blend of dark and light brown tones. This, in turn, is the most notable way of identifying your target.
In a park like Burgess, there are likely hundreds of thousands of gastropods around and with garden snails being among the most common, you’ll have no trouble spotting them. During the day, they tend to hide under plants and debris, so it’s best to go snail-catching in the evening, especially after it has rained, as they come out to feed and mate in the wetter conditions.
Wild Garlic Snail Recipe
30 mins (after snail prep) | Serves 2
It’s said that most foods or non-foods will taste good when covered with garlic butter. Any food-minded forager will suggest that wild garlic and snails are a particular example of gastronomic harmony. This is my rendition, it’s simple, quick and a culinary delight.
Ingredients
12 garden snails
25g wild garlic
125g softened butter
1 small shallot
White vinegar
Method
1. It’s vital to purge your snails before eating them to remove impurities from their digestive systems. Place the snails in a well-ventilated container for four days, feeding them only carrots to eliminate potential toxins. Rinse the snails and the container daily to remove droppings. After purging, rinse them thoroughly with water and refrigerate for a few hours to ensure they stay dormant when cooked.
2. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and add the snails. Cook for about 3 minutes, then drain and rinse with cool water. Use tweezers to remove each snail from its shell. Bring a pot of water with 3 parts water to 1 part white vinegar to a boil. Add the snails and cook for an additional 3 minutes to remove any remaining slime. You’ll notice curdled bits in the water; that’s the mucus.
3. Boil the snail shells separately in water with 2 tablespoons of baking soda for 3 minutes. Drain and rinse the shells, then pat them dry and set them on a baking tray. Dry them in a hot oven for 10–15 minutes.
4. In a small bowl, mash the butter with finely chopped shallots and wild garlic until thoroughly combined. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
5. Spoon a small amount of flavoured butter into each cleaned shell, stuff with a snail, and top with more butter. Arrange the shells in a small baking dish, ensuring they stay steady.
6. Bake in the oven at 190°c for 15 minutes, until you can hear them sizzling loudly. Serve immediately with crusty bread.
Featured image by Cosmin Chifan via Pexels.