Body and Soul: Southwark’s Spots to Eat and Listen

Words and images: Jacob Ortiz 

As one of London’s most eclectic boroughs, Southwark is bustling with good food and music. Its deep roots of migration and connection to the Windrush Generation have grown a rich cultural landscape.

It is home to a melting pot of flavours and rhythms that reflect the diversity of its community. The influence of the Caribbean and African communities, in particular, has left a lasting imprint on Southwark’s dynamic food and music scene. With live performances ranging from afrobeat and soul to hifi vinyl listening and electronic open mics, journey through Southwark with our guide to the best places in the borough for mouthwatering bites and soulful sounds. 

Bar HENGE / Dash the Henge Store 
352a Camberwell New Rd, London SE5 0RW, United Kingdom 
07743 155492 

Dash The Henge and its accompanying cafe and bar, Bar HENGE, are Camberwell hotspots for record collectors, budding musicians, and art students. Formerly the Southwark institution Rat Records, Henge is a ‘genre-fluid’ record store and venue owned by South Londoners Chris and Tim. The Henge Store offers crates and shelves stocked with vinyl and cassettes ranging from dub to neo-pagan rock. Nightly, Dash the Henge transforms into a venue with a regular program of live events and music gigs gracing its tiny stage. 

I start my evening by warming up at Bar HENGE, just two doors down from the store. It’s a hole in the wall, featuring a sizable cocktail list and a selection of eclectically-named toasties, such as the Italian-inspired ‘Bella Ciao’ and the Dijon-heavy ‘Comté Daddy’. Bar HENGE also serves ridiculously good coffee and receives its pastries and bread daily from Toad Bakery, just down Peckham Road. Cocktails start at £10, or you can opt for a refreshing pint from their tap for an appropriate £5. While the food menu isn’t sprawling, what they do offer they do very well. It’s no frills, simple, and hearty. 

I order the ‘Comté Daddy’ and a pint of Pilsner. It’s gooey and greasy, just what I need in the dead of winter. I take a seat in the tiny bar, admiring the walls lined with record sleeves and gig posters as I drink my beer. I spot a tiny TV in the corner of the bar with a live feed of the shop. A woman takes the stage and puts on a set of headphones. Tonight, I’m told by the bartender, is EMOM night. 

Electronic Music Open Mic (EMOM) is a regular event Henge Records puts on every second Wednesday of the month. A night of wide-ranging electronica where musicians of all levels are encouraged to take the Henge stage and lead the crowd. 

I can hear what’s going on in the Store through a connected speaker in Henge Coffee. I decide it’s good enough to check out, so I take my pint and greasy toasty, conveniently served in a to-go box, to the Henge Store. I am impressed. 

The record shop is packed inside shoulder-to-shoulder while crowds of smoking concertgoers chill outside on the pavement- thanks to Henge’s outdoor audio system, music from the gig inside spills out onto Camberwell New Road. As I walk in, I’m greeted by owner Chris and a crowd of electronic music enthusiasts. 

I enjoy my meal and take in the acts, each artist is uniquely different. The packed venue is casual but engaged, people come and go with toasties and drinks from next door. The crowd is supportive, tight-knit, and passionate about music, I witness strangers become friends and I am pleasantly reminded of Dash the Henge’s role as a Southeast London community hub. “The live music element, we want to bring that into the record collector community. Doing live music broadens that community” says Chris. 

Daniel MacPhee, one of the founders of EMOM, credits Dash the Henge for being an excellent venue for South London’s community, “Shout out to Dash the Henge! It’s a great space, it’s run by two guys, they let us have this space to grab drinks and food and put on a great show.” 

I watch the remaining EMOM acts, have a few more pints of Pilsner, and order an “Umami Toast”, with scotch bonnet and marmite, for the road. My seasonal depression is healed after this medicinal cocktail of cheesy sandwiches, tall pints, and live music. 

Amazing Grace 
9a St Thomas St, London SE1 9RY, United Kingdom 
020 4542 5670 

It’s no secret the area surrounding London Bridge Station isn’t in short supply of fantastic eateries. But, when I wish to evade the swarms of hangry tourists and would rather boogie the night away, I cross the road from Borough Market and walk along St. Thomas Street to Amazing Grace, situated in an old church. 

Their menu is Asian-inspired, serving up a great selection of bao sandwiches, Japanese fried chicken, and Wagyu beef burgers. They have a massive house cocktail list, though, slightly on the pricier side. Fans of classic drinks should order their killer negroni, while those feeling adventurous can venture the “Fall at AG”, with whiskey and pinot noir, for around £12. 

Amazing Grace is an equally great spot in London Bridge for a boozy brunch, intimate dinner, or danceable night out. Tuesday to Sunday they offer a wide array of live music and entertainment ranging from hip hop to gospel choirs. While the food and drink selection is tasty and diverse, it is the exciting live programming and a wide array of featured musicians and genres that always keep Amazing Grace interesting and entertaining. 

I made my most recent trip to Amazing Grace on a Saturday afternoon. Saturdays are particularly rammed for the Amazing Grace programme, kicking off with their boozy drag brunch, “God is a DJ”, hosted by Honey the Foxx. Then into the early hours of Sunday morning with their regular series “Take Me to Church,” featuring an array of soul and R&B artists performing with a live band. 

Upon entering I am greeted by psychedelic tessellations and colorful changing landscapes projected across the old church’s altar. It’s trippy and exciting. Just the sort of vibe to get me into the mood for a good dance. It’s packed with diners and dancers alike: a booking is very much recommended for dining. 

I order the fried chicken bao and a side of vegetable gyoza for about £12. The portions are small plates, so I would suggest ordering to share or tapas style. The bao is savory and sweet, and I am equally impressed by my negroni. 

At around 9 PM the ground floor of the restaurant is teeming with people, ready to groove. I finish my food and pick my spot in the crowd of the Saturday night-fevered. Tonight’s “Take Me To Church” features a live R&B band, playing hits and classics. The live music goes until midnight, and everyone around me is having a blast. 

“I have so much fun every time I come to Amazing Grace because I know the food will be good and the music will be good, too.” says regular Amazing Grace attendee and Southwark artist, Paula Koehler. “They have a great choice of vegetarian options, which is helpful for me. So I always feel welcome eating here.” She adds. 

The band wraps up at midnight, but that doesn’t stop the crowd from partying until 2 AM the next morning. I decide it’s time to head to bed, having had my fill of bao, cocktails, and rhythm and blues. 

Jumbi 
Unit 4.1, Copeland Park, 133 Copeland Rd, London SE15 3SN 

A lot can be said about Peckham. It has a rich history and is home to a mosaic of cultures. It is currently the seat of anything hip and trendy in London. Besides its new spring of fine dining options, pop-ups, cafes, and wine bars, Peckham’s long-standing jerk shops and African grocers are testaments to its place as a cultural hub for Britain’s African and Caribbean communities. 

While gentrification and changing demographics have seeded tension between new and old Peckham, its heart and soul reign on in its incredible food and music scene. One of my favorite places to sample the pulse of Peckham is Jumbi. 

Jumbi, located in the creative hub, Copeland Park, is a Hi-Fi music bar and restaurant “celebrating the sounds and flavours of the Afro-Caribbean diaspora.” It’s an intimate venue, serving up Afro-Caribbean-inspired cuisine and playing amazing vinyl records all night long. 

The music bar is the love child of Rhythm Section founder, Bradley Zero, and Nathaniel Williams of the Colour Factory. It should come as no surprise that a HiFi bar and restaurant opened by two of London’s biggest DJs plays good tunes. In fact, the massive collection of vinyl records donning the wall behind the DJ booth was plucked straight from Zero’s home lounge. 

The venue is centered around a high-fidelity (HiFi), single turntable setup. According to the Jumbi team, “The one turntable concept is an attempt to encourage deep listening and prioritise selection above mixing.” You can expect tasty Afro-Caribbean food, rum-focused cocktails, and a wide selection of tunes for your enjoyment. Jumbi’s music ranges from set to set, as every night different DJs take the turntable and guide diners through a musical journey from reggae to disco to folk. 

I am also an enthusiast of Jumbi’s kitchen. While they have an incredible house menu serving up Afro-Caribbean fusion, the guest chefs and residencies they host always bring something new and exciting to the plate. 

Jurkish, the current kitchen residency at Jumbi, serves a gorgeous menu of Turkish-Jamaican fusion. Jurkish, started by chef Wellfed Naz, is a culinary representation of her Turkish and Jamaican heritage: 

“Jurkish is the concept of being Turkish Cypriot and Jamaican. When I think of my food, I think of fusion, of two really different places and two really different things, but they do fit together.” She says. 

After winding through Copeland Park, I grab a seat in Jumbi. The DJ is spinning a mash of tracks that perfectly fuse with the food and drink menu. I am ecstatic. Every time I dine at Jumbi, I know I am about to be surprised and soothed. I order the rum punch (a Jumbi drink staple) and spring for the Oxtail, my personal go-to at any Jamaican restaurant. Off the Jurkish menu I order a Plantain Hummus and the Saltfish Kofte. The food is impeccable. The combination of Jamaican and Turkish cuisine seems like a no-brainer in retrospect: the mash of yoghurt, curry, acid, and herbs works so well. 

At around 9:30 PM the Jumbi staff clear the tables away and make room for a dance floor. The rum cocktails are flowing and the vibes are high. 

The DJ tonight is Ciaran Dougherty, a producer based in East London: “I can play anything from techno to dub to drum and bass, maybe even Afrobeat. The crowd is here for it. They’re just here for a good time, no matter what genre I’m playing.” 

Jumbi is a space for community, despite only opening in 2022, its strong impact on Peckham’s food and music scene is evident by the amount of regulars it brings in. Veejay, a Peckham local, spoke to me about what keeps him coming to Jumbi. 

“Very few places in Peckham do what they do, you know? It’s got a little bit of everything. And it brings together all kinds of people: artists, creatives, regular people.” He says. 

And the food, he adds, is “Banging. I really like all the different [cultural] representations they put into their food.” 

Jumbi is special. New and trendy, sure, but it hasn’t lost touch with its roots and the communities that have shaped Peckham to become the melting pot that it is. With its eclectic vinyl library of international tunes and its Turkish-Jamaican pop-up kitchen, Jumbi has cemented itself as a solid spot to represent Peckham’s heart and soul. 

Peckham Levels 
95a Rye Ln, London SE15 4ST 
020 3111 9889 

Pass the Peckhamplex cinema, head down the alley, and head up a few flights of colourful neon stairs to find the community center, bar, food hall, and venue space, Peckham Levels. 

Levels, formerly a car park, now hosts artists’ studios and plenty of performances and exhibitions. Their bar and food hall is also home to several excellent vendors offering quite a variety of options for every palette. 

In the best way, Peckham Levels has a lot going on. Exhibitions, workshops, pop-ups, and of course, gigs. Its diversity of non-stop programming helps keep it interesting. I have been to jazz nights, DJ sets, album releases, and jam sessions, never really planning what I was set out to do, just knowing I wouldn’t leave disappointed. 

I also never leave Peckham Levels hungry. The food hall is home to three culinary gems: Little Baobab (Senegalese), The Grub Club (Caribbean), and Masta’s (Korean). Each is appropriately priced with a great selection that will take your tastebuds on an international journey. 

On my most recent stop at Peckham Levels, I started by grabbing a meal from Little Baobab, a “Senegalese soul kitchen,” their sign reads. I order the fish YassaÐ a grilled sea bass topped with plenty of grilled onions and lime, served with fonio (an African grain similar to quinoa). Little Baobab also has a great selection of homemade juices such as Bissap (hibiscus), Baobab, and Ginger. 

My partner isn’t in the mood for Senegalese grilled fish. No issue, date night isn’t over yet. He goes next door and orders the massive Korean fried chicken sandwich and cauliflower bites from Masta’s. We each get to sample what the other person ordered. His fried chicken sandwich is juicy, well-seasoned, and crispy. My yassa is oniony, tart from the lime, and extra spicy with Little Baobab’s house hot sauce. Everybody wins tonight. 

I love the seating and open floor plan and communal seating of Peckham Levels, with a small game arcade and bar in the middle. This encourages the build-your-own-adventure spirit I enjoy so much about Levels. You can food hop, play a game, grab a cocktail, admire some art, or watch a gig without ever leaving. This is why I highly recommend Peckham Levels for a date night or large group function, plus there’s lots of seating so a booking is not always required! 

Just as we finish our meals and are ready for another bissap-vodka, jazz begins to play. Tonight’s event is the SDWeekly. 

SDWeekly was founded in 2017 by the Southeast London jazz collective, Steam Down, “to connect London-based musicians and producers.” It’s grown into a weekly event where a rotating mix of Steam Down artists improvise and jam to create “sonic soundscapes reflecting their lives in the city.” SDWeekly now calls Peckham Levels its home. 

SDWeekly’s night is community-centered, everybody somehow knows everybody, and the talent on stage is ferociously good. Throughout the improvisational jazz session, various genres, rhythms, and instruments are explored by the artists. Elements of soul, punk, Afrobeat, and hip-hop flutter throughout the venue space. The crowd is tuned in, uplifting and applauding the SDWeekly staples and newcomers alike. 

Peckham Levels is a great spot to build the night of your dreams. The food offering is solid, the live programming is exciting, and never ceases to amaze me. The variety of gigs, art, and workshops held in the venue and exhibition spaces reflect the diversity of Peckham’s creative community and Southeast London’s residents. 

The Bear 
296A Camberwell New Rd, London SE5 0RP 
020 3015 5168 

Tucked on a corner of Camberwell New Road is one of the hottest pubs in SE5 (and my regular) The Bear. What makes The Bear special is its outdoor seating, line of live music events, warm inviting atmosphere, and out-of-this-world food. 

The Bear is a 30-year-old gastro pub that was renovated by two buddies and culinary masterminds, Joe and Teddy. Joe Sharratt and Teddy Roberts first collaborated in the Brixton-based Naughty Piglets before moving over to Southwark to take on The Bear: 

“We wanted to create a chilled atmosphere with great food and drinks. Nothing too fancy or over the top. Just a place where people could come and enjoy the vibe, meet up with friends or make some new ones.” They have excelled a million times over. 

Not only do they pour a great pint of Guinness and offer a wonderful wine selection, but The Bear’s kitchen also churns out a remarkable menu using locally sourced ingredients. That means the menu changes, but while you may not be able to order the same thing every time, you can count on it being stellar. 

You can expect offerings like ham croquettes, steak tartare, and Herdwick lamb. This is not your run-of-the-mill fish and chips pub grub. However, don’t let the great wine list and menu scare you away from a night out at the pub! The Bear is well-priced and warm, not snobby in the slightest, which makes it a great spot for a date night, a group party, or a quick dash for a pint. You can also always bet on catching a good tune while you’re there. 

My favorite night of the week to visit The Bear is on a Wednesday. Every Wednesday evening, The Bear hosts an open deck night for record aficionados and vinyl DJs. Grabbing a table to dine in is also a little easier. It’s casual, chill, and inviting. Strangers chat about what records they brought with them, some of them lifelong DJs and collectors, others just starting out. 

Island Girl, a musician and radio DJ, hosts the weekly open deck nights at The Bear. She says the magic of The Bear’s open deck night is its variety and laidback attitude. “People just sign up and bring whatever records they want with them. It’s really low-key, and that’s nice because you get a real variety that way.” 

Sometimes a bit of comfort is nice, especially at your local pub. I order a pint of Guinness and some stracciatella for the table. After having my fill of beer and Italian cheese I decide it’s time to hop on the deck myself. I’ve been to a lot of open deck nights in my life, but the crowd is always so chill and open at The Bear, which keeps me coming back again and again as both a DJ and patron. 

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Featured image by Luis Quintero via Pexels.